Craig Castree, who very generously spent 2 hours to present a workshop on pruning & grafting fruit trees. Craig is a horticulturist from Werribee Park Heritage Orchard. Craig's first point was to advise pruning fruit trees after fruiting in summer, not in winter. Pruning in winter will encourage vigorous growth and limit amount of fruit produced. Prune close to bud, always using sharp equipment. Use methylated spirits to clean pruning tools to prevent spreading disease from plant to plant.
Craig spoke about his own garden, a normal suburban backyard, where he grows 5 apple trees producing 26 varieties of apples, 2 apricot trees producing 6 varieties of stone fruit, 1 pear tree producing 8 varieties of pears. The attraction of grafting several varieties of fruit to one tree, is the benefit of fruit ripening at different times over many months. To espalier fruit trees along a fence will utilise space in small backyards.
Companion planting is very important to promote pollinators and reduce pests. Plant garlic and nasturtium under apple trees by October to deter codling moth. Planting vegetables in rows will attract pests, mixing vegetables amongst flower plants will deter pests. If you get pests, try to find it's predator. For example, planting marigolds will attract hover flies, who eat aphids.
To help protect bees, Craig urged everyone not to use chemical sprays in the garden. Australia is currently exporting bees to other countries to assist building up declining bee populations overseas.
Fruit trees, particularly citrus are very hungry plants and should be fed regularly. Sulphate of potash, blood and bone, dynamic lifter, dolomite lime, spread handful per square metre around root line. To prevent fungicide, spraying with a copper base spray will not hurt bees. Plant citrus trees in raised beds to prevent root rot and water often. Mulch around trees, do not include grass cuttings as it causes collar rot. Remove fallen leaves to prevent fungicide spores rising again.
Using a grafting knife, Craig demonstrated how to graft trees. A lot of skill is involved and much practice is required. An omega tool can be used for a quick and easy graft, however Craig stressed it does not make a strong graft. Hydrate tree well before grafting and select a pencil thin branch. Cut between buds, then hydrate with water. Make cuts the same size and make a whip and tongue graft, place so the outer cuts match, then tape together. It takes a few months for a graft to take. Support graft for 12 months till the branch has grown strong.
Craig demonstrated the types of grafts needed for different trees. He advised keeping a garden diary to keep records of tree grafts, including diagrams.
Craig answered questions from members. He is the author of a book, "Edible gardens - a practical guide", which he donated to raffle.
